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Get
the correct needles
The needle
sizes given in our patterns are the diameters of the needles, given in
metric. Use
the following table to convert to your sizing scheme:
For felted bags, the exact
tension is not important, but we recommend that you use needles as
close to size stated in the pattern to get the best results. |
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Make
your own stitch markers Take a length of spare yarn,
approximately 12–15 cm long, fold in half and tie a knot to
form a loop. This loop must be big enough to fit over your knitting
needle, but not too big! When knitting your bag, slip the
stitch markers across the working needle each time you reach them. Do not
knit or purl into these markers!
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Knit
in the round
Many of our bags are knitted in
the round. This
avoids the need to sew seams in your work.
We recommend that you place a marker at the start of
the first round so that you can easily see when you restart the round
and count the number of rounds you have knitted.
A simple stitch marker can be made from a loop of
contrast yarn, as described above. By knitting throughout, your
work will appear as if knitted in stocking stitch. |
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Circular
needles
Cast the required number of
stitches onto the needle. Many
of these will pass onto the nylon cord joining the two ends of the
needle. Make sure
that the last of the cast on stitches are at the end of the point in
your right hand and that the first of the cast stitches are at the end
of the point in your left hand. Using the left hand point, as if
it were a second needle, knit round all the stitches, sliding the
stitches along the nylon cord towards the point in your right hand as
you work. When you reach the end of the first round continue knitting as before, so 'working in the round'.
When
knitting one of the smaller bags the first few rounds can be offputting
as you will need to move the stitches across the nylon quite firmly,
even having this poking out between the stitches! But persevere as it
will get easier as you work up the bag. |
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Double-ended
needles
If you prefer to use a set of
double ended needles, cast the required number of stitches onto one of
the needles. Divide
these stitches evenly across three of the needles, making a triangular
shape with the needles. Use the fourth double ended
needle to knit across all the stitches working from each of the needles
in turn. Each time
one needle is emptied of stitches this becomes the new needle to use as
the 'fourth needle'. Keep
knitting round in this way so don't turn your work and go in the
opposite direction! If you end up with the stitch at
the end of any of the needles being worked loosely compared to all the
others, I suggest that you transfer an additional couple of stitches
onto the next needle each time you go round.
This stops these looser stitches sitting in a
vertical line within your work. |
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Knit
an I-cord
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Standard I-cord With double ended needles, cast
on 5 stitches. Some
patterns say 4 or even 3 stitches but this can give a rather loose cord
unless chunky yarn is being used. Knit 1 row; do
not turn work. Slide the stitches to the
opposite end of your needle so that the smooth side of the knit row
remains facing you. Take the yarn behind the
stitches knitted and repeat the knit row, making sure that you knit the
first stitch tightly. Repeat this until the I-cord is
your desired length. |
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Attached
I-cord
With double ended needles cast
on 4 stitches. Some
patterns may say 4 or even 3 stitches, but I prefer the chunkier edging
obtained with 5 stitches. Then
pick up and knit 1 stitch from the edge of your main piece. Knit 4 stitches, knit 2 together
through the back of the loops, then pick up and knit 1 stitch from the
edge of your main piece. Slide the stitches to the
opposite end of your needle. take
the yarn behind the stitches knitted and repeat the knit row given
above, making sure that you knit the first stitch tightly. Repeat this until the I-cord is
attached to your main piece as far as required. |
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Graft
using Kitchener stitch
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To join two pieces of knitting
without a seam, use the following method (do not cast off the edges of
the pieces to be joined!): Thread a wool needle with a
length of wool and hold in your right hand.
Hold both knitting needles with the knitted stitches
to be joined, parallel, in your left hand.
Secure the wool to the right hand end of the
knitting. Pass the wool needle, as if to
purl, through the first stitch on the front needle then, as if to knit,
on the back needle and draw the thread through. *Pass the wool needle, as if to
knit, in the first stitch on the front needle and draw the wool through
while slipping the stitch off the knitting needle.
Pass the wool needle, as if to purl, through the
second stitch on the front needle. Pass the wool needle, as if to
purl, through the first stitch on the back needle while slipping off
the knitted stitch, as before. Pass
the wool needle, as if to knit, through the second stitch on the back
needle and draw the wool through.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row
then secure the wool and weave in the end.
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Reknit
your pattern
The pattern received with your
kit will state the weight of wool used. This
wool MUST be pure (100%) wool and NOT the superwash variety. We
strongly recommend that you test a knitted sample before
embarking on a project with yarn other than that supplied by Sheepfold. Other names for the weight of
wool are as follows:
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